From shifting US tariff policies to post-Brexit complexities, the global trade landscape has never been more unpredictable. Fashion brands across the spectrum face an unprecedented level of customs uncertainty that directly impacts their bottom line and customer experience. In our latest Beyond Threads podcast episode, Bleckmann Customs Director Katja Idsinga reveals how forward-thinking brands are using proactive strategies to overcome these challenges and secure a competitive advantage.
The new reality of cross-border commerce
In a world where customs duties can fluctuate overnight, financial planning has become an unprecedented challenge. For example, brands with manufacturing operations in Asia or South America must decide whether to absorb sharply increasing import costs or pass them on to customers. “The uncertainty is hitting brands hard,” explains Katja. “Companies run best when they have certainty about costs, but volatile duty rates – be it 10%, 30% or 100% – directly impact pricing strategies and competitive positioning.”
This uncertainty has the potential to create a ripple effect throughout the entire customer experience. Some brands may struggle to maintain competitive pricing while managing unpredictable cost structures, often forcing difficult decisions between margin preservation and market accessibility. In this landscape, proactive customs planning to reduce costs is indispensable – so what can brands do to adapt to the ‘new normal’?
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From compliance burden to strategic advantage
For fast-growing fashion brands, a holistic perspective on customs management can deliver significant benefits. What was once viewed simply as a compliance burden is now recognised as a critical component of a competitive growth strategy. This requires brands to move from a reactive approach towards a more comprehensive framework.
For European brands, this may involve implementing dual sourcing strategies, exploring ‘nearshoring’ opportunities in countries like Portugal, Morocco and Turkey, or even leveraging bonded warehousing to maintain operational flexibility while limiting duty exposure. “We help customers work through the ‘what-ifs’,” says Katja. “Should you have dual storage facilities? Should you duplicate inventory between Europe and the US? Making the right strategic decisions on topics like these can determine market success.”
Data: The foundation of operational resilience
Behind every effective customs strategy lies robust data management. Brands that excel in uncertain markets maintain precise visibility into areas such as product origins, customer geography and return patterns. This granular understanding enables sophisticated decision-making about inventory placement and fulfilment strategies.
The stakes are particularly high in fashion retail, where 30-40% of products are typically returned to manufacturers. Without proper customs planning, cross-border returns can trigger double duty payments, creating unexpected cost exposures that erode profitability. “Data is key,” emphasises Katja. “You need to know exactly where your goods are coming from, where you’re shipping to and what your main customer base looks like. Only then can you make informed decisions about whether to, for example, import everything locally or maintain flexibility through solutions like bonded storage.”
A competitive edge in a complex landscape
As customs regulations become increasingly complex, the value of specialist expertise has never been higher. Katja brings over 25 years of customs experience across consultancy and import operations – a unique perspective that spans the entire customs ecosystem. “I’ve been on all sides of customs,” she notes. “With this combination of experiences, you can really understand the full picture. The financial impact of getting customs wrong can be significant, and expert help can make all the difference.”
Importantly, customs should not be treated as an isolated function. By taking a holistic approach, whereby compliance expertise integrates seamlessly with strategic supply chain planning, brands can prioritise both adaptability and efficiency. This way, regulatory requirements can inform business decisions about market entry, inventory management and customer service delivery. The brands that thrive will be those that view customs not as a cost centre to minimise, but as a strategic capability to optimise.
Press play on the Beyond Threads podcast to get the full story from Katja and discover her insights on how strategic customs management can help you overcome regulatory challenges and secure a long-term strategic advantage.
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Transcript
Eric (Host):
Hi there, and welcome to another episode of the Beyond Threats podcast by Bleckmann. I’m your host, Eric Sustain. Today, I’m joined by Katja Idsinga, Bleckmann’s Customs Director. Welcome, Katja.
Katja (Bleckmann):
Thanks for having me, Eric. Happy to be here.
Eric:
It’s great to have you. We need your insights and experience because today we’re covering how brands are adapting their internal processes to new customs and tariff regulations in international fashion trading.
Katja:
Of course. I recently joined Bleckmann, but I have 25 years of experience in customs, starting in consultancy, then working on the importer side, and now at a logistics service provider. This is the first time I’m filing declarations for others rather than for my own company. It’s a different environment, but I’m really enjoying it.
Eric:
For listeners unfamiliar with customs, can you give a brief overview?
Katja:
Sure. Whenever goods cross a border, a customs declaration is required—whether it’s import, export, or storage in a bonded warehouse or free zone. Transit documents are used to move goods between locations. Declarations must include product description, ownership, value, classification, and origin. These elements determine the duties owed to authorities.
Eric:
So essentially, every time goods enter or leave a country, you declare them using HS codes to determine applicable taxes.
Katja:
Exactly.
Eric:
Given today’s volatile global situation, how are regulations changing?
Katja:
Many countries are adopting protectionist measures, such as tariffs or sanctions, to protect local markets. For example, the US has imposed higher duties on imports, affecting products from Asia or South America, even down to fabrics, not just finished goods. This often leads to reduced shipments to the US and can push more products to the EU instead.
Eric:
So American protectionism might not have the intended effect?
Katja:
Correct. The US is aiming to protect local manufacturing, but most brands manufacture abroad, so the duties mainly impact importers and consumers.
Eric:
Other than US measures, what major shifts have you seen?
Katja:
Several factors impact customs: port closures, Brexit, and COVID-related delays all caused logistical and customs challenges. Companies need certainty to manage pricing and inventory, but volatile duty rates create financial unpredictability.
Eric:
How are brands adapting to this uncertainty?
Katja:
Brands are exploring options like dual storage (in Europe and the US), bonded warehouses, and dual sourcing to take advantage of trade agreements. These strategies help delay duty payments, minimize cost, and maintain flexibility. Nearshoring is also gaining momentum, with production shifting to countries like Portugal, Morocco, Tunisia, and Turkey.
Eric:
What are the key considerations for brands to build flexibility and resilience?
Katja:
Master data is crucial:
Know where goods are produced and shipped.
Understand customer locations.
Track returns carefully, since 30–40% of fashion products are returned, which can affect duties.
Use bonded warehouses to maintain flexibility and minimize double duties.
Eric:
Any final advice for brands navigating customs challenges?
Katja:
If you don’t know, ask for help. Customs duties and regulations are complex, and mistakes can be costly. Work with experts to analyze your options and set up your supply chain for success.
Eric:
How can listeners reach you or benefit from your expertise?
Katja:
You can reach us via Bleckmann’s website, general contact email, phone, or LinkedIn.
Eric:
Thanks, Katja. That wraps up today’s episode. If you still have questions, reach out to experts to ensure your supply chain is set up for success. Tune in for the next episode.
